Lyø and Avernakø

Lyø and Avernakø  06.09.16

As i thought i dont really understand this island hopping lark. I mean there needs to be something to hop to, doesnt there? One sand dune is pretty much like another sand dune to me. I had hoped to stretch this excursion out all day, spend four hours on each island but find myself struggling to fill two hours on Lyø, could manage two and a quarter hours quite easily as a result of a 'marked path' being anything other than a trace in the undergrowth, but cant bear the idea of another two hours to wait with nothing to do so think, press on off to Avernakø, its bigger, more than 3k long.

In fact, Avernakø is probably 9k long and appears on paper more interesting as its two islands that have been joined by a spit. A bit like North Uist and South Uist in the Hebrides. But its almost as flat as a pancake and far less interesting. Lyø had ancient history, dolmans, windmill, caterpillars, fields of maize, herds of cows, salt marsh, sea lavender, rolling hills and grape vines and although only 3k long its arranged in a star shape so you ride out and back out and back out and back.

I had thought that if i stayed out all day i would have to treat myself to an evening meal and a few beers, the last ferry goes back at 9.40, sounded a lovely day. Hmm im struggling at two fifteen, am sitting in the shade in the second biggest harbour on Avanakø, seven yachts moored but no people, shop, pub, cafe, anything. Admittedly, the main ferry harbour just sported one cafe, which was closed. I do realise it is a bit out of season and i do realise that there are three picnic benches here so people must come here some times but..... I feel perhaps the tourist office and literature 'big up' these islands just to get people on the ferries. I wouldn't mind if they said bring a book and a blanket, prepare to do nothing but they portray them as interesting places with things to do!

My plan is to head another kilometre down to the furthermost point, maybe have a paddle if the water is close enough to shore then head slowly back, mostly along the same stretch of road although at one point i get an alternative loop of about two kilometres which i will take.

Instead of getting lighter as ive eaten my lunch, my bag has become heavier as i am now carrying two pieces of scrumped corn on the cob and two large onions from a 'put and take' stall. I think i might caramalise them with a bit of butter i have left, mix them with the rest of the tortellini then stir in fresh tomatoes and parsley. Thatll do for two nights meals.

I did pass one sorry looking grill bar and one hotel opposite each other centrally on the island but to be honest, i just know the food would be so very very bad that i think im better off just doing the rounds and heading back home rather than staying just because i thought i might find some nice food. My return ferry choices are 4.30pm or 7.10pm, oh heck, itll have to be the 4.30. 

Avanakø sports little in the way of flowers or agriculture, there was a small trailer of grain being loaded on to the ferry when we alighted and when i saw a combine harvester in a field thought oh my goodness how can the island support that and conclude that it must be shared between at least these two islands. Ive also seen one field of hay being harvested but no bales or stacks lying around. Theres a few sheep, a few highland cattle but thats it other than a small herd i saw on arrival on Lyø with children moving them back from milking and i wondered why they were not at school. It did not appear that they were holidaymakers, new to the task, in the way they were slapping and shouting at the cows encouraging them to move.

I bike further on and reach the end of the island looking forward to the swimming beach and another tiny harbour. Both are deserted. The only sign of life is one wheelbarrow. Somehow i am not tempted to paddle, perhaps as much as anything because i was looking forward to the loos, marked as being here but invisible. Perhaps although the ferry are still running the high season timetable the loos have gone with the crowds of the summer? As well as needing to expell fluid i need to take some more onboard so head back to the last harbour i sat at where i saw loo signs and what appeared to be water supplies for boats at the end. I pass a couple who i think must be as excited in their holiday accomodation as i am to be here, they are playing football with windfall apples. I conclude that they can only be holidaymakers for I think it unlikely that with the number of wasps around, property owners would splat apple mush everywhere but could easily be wrong!

Im good at being wrong. The loo signs appear to direct me through thick overgrowth to a tumbling building so i decide to opt instead for a squat which is really rather beautiful as i share my time with a dragonfly. I propped my bike beside the honesty box, 'bikes for hire', sign but had no fears that someone might come along and opt for mine. Theres no people and its hardly a bike one would choose to steal. I carry a small cafe lock but my host says please dont worry, we know it is not worth anything and if it gets stolen so be it. I point out that i may be a long way from home and will therefore choose to use my lock. On this occasion though, i leave it without. 

I still do not understand this little harbour, marked on the map described as 'Kro', i have hitherto concluded that kro means hotel and according to the map i think there are 40 beds here. Clearly there were not when i was first here and i concluded whilst riding that perhaps its bunkhouse accommodation. On my return i still find no evidence of space for beds of any description.

Pleased now to be on the home stretch i drink all bar the tiniest mouthful of my water and head down to the end of the harbour to the tap, i notice numbers on the berths and as i retrace my steps follow the numbers, all the way to 40. So it is bed but in this case its a bed for a boat!! Tap? What tap? No tap. Only electrical charging points. Never mind, not far to go. 

I turn off on to my diversion of Skallevej which foolishly i think says school road and im looking forward to seeing a bit of life on this island. Suddenly, I hear snuffling and there are three curly haired pigs in a garden, i stop and try to creep up to take a photo but they dart off and we play a game of hide and seek until a small motorised lawnmower comes along and they make a beeline firstly for me, decide against it so run and play havoc with some chickens.

Skallevej is clearly not school road for the tarmac soon disappears and the rough track takes me, not in the straight line as indicated on the map but wiggling up and down dunes on rutted gravel. My face grows hot and i stop at the top of one incline to give certain bodyparts a rest before i descend. Stretch cropped jeans are not the most comfortable biking clothes, especially not with a male saddle but at least theres no risk of any hanky panky on this trip! 

I descend at speed, beautifully balancing on the pedals and allowing the bike to ride over the gravel and the lumps. I am aware that should a vehicle be coming around the corner in the other direction i could find myself in real difficulty as i have neither suspension nor efficient brakes but given that I've only seen two vehicles on the roads today i think that unlikely. I am rewarded for taking the risk as i whizz round the corner to return to pleasing tarmac.

Heading now back to Faaborg, i conclude, yet again, that i will not try more island hopping but have to admit ive had a full day of exercise. I have a message from Rebecka in Goteborg, to ring her this evening, no message, either mail or fb, from the train company. Cest la vie. Although Denmark can manage efficient ferries, it appears they are unable to manage the same for their train service.