Arriving on the ferry from Tórshavn, I follow the directions to my accommodation and creep into my room, anxious not to wake my host, sleeping after her night shift. The house is light with views over the harbour and a dog that greets me hopefully but makes not a sound nor minds when I ignore it. Tonight I am sleeping in Levi's room, his door tells me so. I dump my bags and walk out.
What a lovely place. No room at the cafe to sit, I ask, shall I come back later to eat, but am directed to join the table of others, out for Sunday lunch I think, just one chair left, so I sit down.
I meet the most friendly faoese people, he born on Nolsoy, part of a sheep farming collective, she, Johan, as friendly as you might get. The cod special has all gone, now it is just waffles with beetroot salad, cream cheese and pickled rhubarb. It tastes good. Pickled rhubarb, crispy fresh and delicious, I have been offered the recipe, offered pickled angelica from somebody's mother, am now eating seaweed ice cream and most importantly of all, I have been invited to swim this evening in the harbour. Meet on the bridge at eight!
Although I have not yet met my host, Jalka, my new friend tells me she is Finnish and training to be a kindergarten teacher. I think this a good omen, I generally find I have things in common with the Finnish. However, I am anxious that just by saying where I am staying, I may have given away too much about her, but presumably it is not possible to rent out accommodation without the village knowing. Yet I am also anxious, that my new friend tells me my host is most definitely not at home, but on holiday. Hmmm that doesn't quite fit with sleeping because of working night shifts, by now I'm getting used to stories that are untrue, I'll wait and see.
I discover I am eating, not in the wrong place but neither yet in the right place, I am not in Maggies but this is good for I will have discovered two social places in one afternoon. I have learned I cannot, after all, get a boat to the other end of the island to make the three hour walk back, the one way trip is for pre booked groups only. I know the six hour walk, highlight of the island, is too much for me, but have been told there is a better, nicer walk I can do. And it turns out I will see the lighthouse when I take my cruise on the reknown Nordlysid, yes, I've booked, forget sleeping on the boat and cooking the cakes, I'm a tourist now!
I have learned that my photo of the sheep with headphones, shows in fact, him wearing the equivalent of a tooth brace to stop his horns curling and sticking in to his eyes as they grow, without this I understand he will be uncomfortable, grow sickly and thin. I actually think he will make a better breeding machine if not in discomfort with his horns sticking in his eyes when he shags!
Maggies proves to be pleasant but a bit of a disappointment. I pay my 50 krone for an hour and a half to two hours of music, which turns out to be 50 minutes. Rather a serious man playing middle of the road music but nevertheless an introduction to a bar in which I feel comfortable. I'm now finishing my second beer and want a third. I have 90 minutes before my swim. Swimming and beer do not mix. Since the live music stopped, 60's and 70's tracks have been playing, and the bar has filled up, making me feel more comfortable and at home, or is that the effect of the beer?
So far removed from the drinking cafe in Midvagur, or the eating places in Sørvágur or Kollafjørdur this is clearly a city influenced environment and island. Just twenty minutes out of Tórshavn by ferry and the food, the people and the preponderance of two eating/drinking places in a tiny community tell me I am no longer in a remote village despite the fact that in theory, I am. I regret, or at least ponder on the fact that I feel more comfortable here, enjoying the environment and touches of familiarity.
I have booked three nights here and will then take the helicopter back to Sudoroy, but to the south of the island, Vagur, the home of spinning mills and another art gallery. From there, I have decisions to make, I could return here, right now it is tempting to do so, my host has availability. I would always much rather get to know a place intimately than rush from one spot to another, but three days is probably enough to get to know this place.
But I miss something very important from my story and must back track. Arriving in good time for the bus from Tvøroyri to take me to my ferry and on to Tórshavn, I nevertheless panic that the bus may not arrive. Across the fjord, 5k away, i can see the ferry already sitting there. The German girl is not here and I begin to panic, check I'm not late and then put my thumb out, for the first time on Sudoroy, just in case the bus does not arrive. Two cars pass me by before the German girl arrives.
We both seem pleased to see each other and this time chat easily, laughing at our experiences of finding few people on the streets in Tvøroyri and little to engage us with the weather against us. We compare notes, the mountain walk, Cafe Mormor, the art gallery, Jamie's. We arrive at the ferry and board. I am now faced with dilemma. This for me, is prime two hours writing time, yet how can I turn down company having unsuccessfully sought it out hitherto. I say I'm buying breakfast and she joins me.
Her name is Julia, a post doc researcher taking six months out and I am so pleased we met. When we met the first time she tells me she had just arrived on the ferry that morning, had misjudged the distance to her guest house, with her phone telling her it was 900 meters but failing to tell that this was the swimming route, the walking route being a good 5k. She says she was in a focused, let's get going frame of mind and then adds that I seemed so excited, talking about the weaving with the ladies that she just slid off. She is right. How we misjudge others actions, hey?
More so though, another surprise awaited me. Queuing on the ferry to buy our tickets, who should be standing two people in front of us, other than Heidi, owner of my hostel for the last four nights! She turns, we see each other, hello Heidi, I say and she says, hi and turns away. I am confused that despite her knowing I would be on this ferry she didn't offer me a lift, I can only assume that I misjudged her friendliness. I think now, that despite her stories of being fed up cleaning after other people who stay just a few days, she will not be offering me a reduced price for a longer stay.
By now, I've moved on anyway, Nolsoy could be the place for me. A long, narrow island, with swimmers, where, in rough weather, the waves crash right across the village, from one side to the other!
Surely this might be a good place to return to, in the winter at least for in summer time i feel it may be a millionaires retreat. I suspect already though, that the overloud laughing of people in this bar may grate on me after a while. As yet, there is no news from Marit despite asking her to let me know about potential dates either for the wedding that she needs help with or for a visit to Mykines. I feel no rush to return there but if not doing so, must begin to make onward plans.
